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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.